But you can make your own designer shelving unit for a fraction of the price, following our step-by-step instructions. This ladder shelf features a sturdy A-frame with two separate arms, or wings, which act as braces to support the upper shelves. The ladder assemblies are joined by homemade connector blocks and off-the-shelf nuts and bolts. You'll only need hand tools and a drill, and perhaps a power saw if you can't buy the shelves pre-cut to size.

Materials for one A-frame module cost about $100 for the timber, add extra for the MDF to be cut and about $10 for hardware. You'll need a tin or two of paint, too.



Watch Rob build these shelves on the TV show.

Step 1
Cut the stiles (A) to length. As they form a ladder shape, cut them with a 10° bevel at the bottom and top so they stand flat. To do this, use a sliding bevel set to cut 80° (10° off-square) and draw a line across the face side of the timber at 1 end. Use a handsaw, or a mitre saw set to 10° to trim stile along the line. If using a handsaw, draw a square line down the side of the timber as a guide to cutting straight.

Step 2
Set the timber on a bench hook to cut. Measure 1955mm from the long (or sharp) point of the stile, then set the bevel to mark the same angle at the other end. Cut as before. Cut all stiles, then repeat for the arms (B). As you work, occasionally check the angle of the sliding bevel as it may change if it gets knocked.

Step 3
Cut out the rungs (C) with a square cut at each end. As they will have a butt joint to the inside face of the stiles, check that your cuts are square using a combination square.

Step 4
From the top long end of one of the stiles, measure 43, 100, 143, 932, 975, 1162, 1205, 1516, 1559, 1870 and 1913mm (see diagram A far left) along the edge. Similarly, measure 100, 143, 454, 497, 808, 851 and 932mm (see diagram B left) along edge of one of the arms from the top. Clamp faces of the 4 stiles together to transfer the set-out marks to the 4 stiles and repeat for arms.

Step 5
At each mark, use the sliding bevel to draw in the 10° angle on the face side. Check you are going in the same direction as the bevel cuts at the top and bottom. Be as accurate as you can.

Step 6
At each of these marked-out sections, draw in crossed diagonals to find the centre of the joint as a screw centre. Do this for all stiles and arms. Drill a 5mm clearance hole at the centre of each joint.

Step 7
Similarly, draw in crossed diagonals at both ends of the rungs. Change to a 2 or 3mm bit and drill a pilot hole in each end. Setting out and predrilling like this allows for easy assembly later as you can work to drill centres rather than to the set-out lines. Before you assemble, countersink for the screw heads on 2 of the stiles on the marked sides, and the 2 stiles on the unmarked sides, so you have left- and right-hand stiles.

Step 8
To assemble each ladder, hold a rung in a vertical position in a vice or with clamps to a block on the edge of a bench. Apply glue to the end and screw on the stile with the set-out markings face down. Screw all rungs to this stile.

Step 9
Before the glue sets, twist the rungs so the narrow edge is parallel with the set- out lines. The time you spent marking out earlier makes this step a lot easier. Now screw on the other stile. Repeat for long and short ladders. Once all frames are made, fill screw holes ready for sanding.

Step 10
Mark out and cut the 6 connector blocks (D), using the same 10° angle. Draw the lines parallel with, and 42mm in from, the ends using another block. Then, draw in the diagonals (as you did before) for the centre of the bolt holes. Use an 8mm or 5/16" bit to bore 2 holes into the block. Also use the 8mm bit to open up the bolt holes in the top and the 930mm joints of the stiles and the bottom of the arms.

Step 11
Sand and paint the frames and shelves (E) with a sealer undercoat. When dry, follow with a light sand and 2 coats of bright red enamel or other colour of your choice. If you use an oil-based enamel, it will dry more slowly, but the surface will be less sticky.

Step 12
To assemble a long and short ladder, push bolts in from the outside, add washers, then feed on the block. Add a second washer and wind on the nuts (Nylok nuts ensure they will not undo). Repeat this for the other 2 ladders, then repeat for the top hinge block to form the A-frame.

Step 13
To assemble the shelving unit, stand the frame on the floor. Spread the legs at the bottom so they are 800mm apart, measuring to the outside of the legs. Check that the top hinge block is level. Centre the bottom shelf and mark the position for the screw holes. They should be about 130mm in from ends of the shelf. Predrill and screw in place to the bottom rungs.

Step 14
Measure 443mm from centre of top join of the stiles to the long point of the arms, to position them correctly for the top shelf. Slide in the top shelf and centre it, then predrill screw holes (in this case, about 100mm from ends). Recheck arm positions, then screw the shelf to the rungs. Check that it looks even, then drive a screw or two into one of the top rungs of the main frame. Slide the remainder of shelves in place. They do not need to be fixed. Repeat for any other units.