Nisha Madhan, aka Shortland Street's Shanti Kumari-Scott, discovers Chicago's secrets.

The thing about Chicago is, it's not one of those cities with tourist sign-posts everywhere to point you toward having the same experience as everyone else. You have to figure it out on your own.

My aunt lives in Chicago with her husband and five-year-old twins. Having her there has meant I've been lucky enough to visit Chicago twice.

The first time was during the dead of winter in 1999. Though I thoroughly appreciated the novelty of walking through snow flurries and making snowmen, I have to say that this time around, visiting in the middle of the North American summer, I was struck immediately by the majesty of the city.

After two days of concentrated play-time with my cousins - penance for missing five whole birthdays - I bargained my way out of the house.

When dropped off at the train station I found myself surrounded by what would appear to be a typical American college spring break - girls in bikinis with perfectly tanned bodies and guys in baseball shirts on their way to see the ‘Big Game.'

The word that springs to mind when I think of the Illinois landscape is ‘vast'. It's an ever-stretching sea of suburbia dotted with Walgreens, Starbucks and McDonald's. After an hour on the train, I was finally out of the suburbs, thinking about The Blues Brothers and Al Capone and hot jazz nightclubs.

I strolled over the city's beautiful bridges, admiring the works of architectural genius, but on every corner there would still be a Starbucks to remind me that I was in America, the land of franchises, with its empire of neon signs and product images.

 

Vintage glamour

After hours of walking, I decided to ask someone where I could find some second-hand and vintage clothing stores, and a wonderfully friendly local told me exactly where. For me, this is when the city started to reveal itself.

North Chicago is home to a wonder of vintage stores, filled with unique pieces of Americana. I'm a sucker for old time glamour and was absolutely thrilled to come away with a Grace Kelly-style gown for $70. To complete the old-fashioned feeling, I ate lunch at a classic American diner that serves iced tea and filter coffee by the gallon.

One of the best things to do, in the inner city of Chicago, is to catch the ‘L' train. We've all seen it on television, picking up and spitting out doctors and nurses on ER, possibly the most famous TV drama to be based in the Windy City. I couldn't help but think what it might be like for Shanti if she were to come face-to-face with ER's Dr Neela Rasgotra (played by Parminder Nagra). I wondered who would come out on top in a scrap. I thought it best not to find out just yet, but perhaps with more time I would have called NBC to request a set visit.

The ‘L' train is more or less the same as an underground train system, except it's elevated above the roads - hence the nickname. Once I was up there, floating through building after building, I felt at last I had an insight into the city.

Chicago is home to some of the most incredible architecture in the world, heightening the city's majestic qualities. If you love architecture you would have scolded me for not taking the time to explore the various buildings designed by the legendary Frank Lloyd Wright. In my defence I had only four days, and two-five-year olds to hang out with.

The following day I felt the real warmth of America - and what more perfect place to find it than in a darkened little theatre in North Chicago called Steppenwolf. It was founded in 1974 by Terry Kinney, Jeff Perry and Gary Sinise (who we all know as Lieutenant Dan from Forrest Gump). The three young actors, fresh out of school, decided to put on plays simply because they wanted to. They were later joined by great actors including John Malkovich and Joan Allen. Today, Steppenwolf is considered one of the best professional theatre companies in the world.

 

Theatrical marvels

I was lucky enough to see a local production called Superior Donuts, about a donut shop owner, played by Michael McKean of A Mighty Wind and This is Spinal Tap fame. Although many local references were lost on me, the warmth of the audience wasn't. Their laughter was so audible and uninhibited as they consciously shared the same experience.

Steppenwolf was the thing that inspired me
the most about Chicago. It made me recall the two independent theatre companies I help run back home - Phundmi and Peripeteia. While I was in Chicago, Peripeteia was opening a season of its sixth production to date and Phundmi was starting development workshops for its next play, The House of Bernarda Alba. Just like Steppenwolf, we started these companies to put on plays simply because we love them. I thought about all the struggles we've been through to bring theatre to life in Auckland, and I couldn't help but feel a connection to Steppenwolf, and a little pride as well.

I realise now that, however majestic the city may be, the true inner beauty of Chicago lies within its elusiveness. You have to work hard to find the right spots, but when you do, it's simply perfect. There was no time for Nurse Shanti to tangle with Dr Neela Rasgotra.

Chicago is rich in culture and scenery. Experience everything from blues music to modern art, and drink in the picturesque views as you cruise on the beautiful Lake Michigan.

See the city from the Skydeck on the 103rd floor of the Sears Tower, the tallest building in North America.

There's something for everyone at Navy Pier - shopping, dining, museums, a beer garden and the famous 15-storey-tall Ferris wheel.

Chicago is home to The Oprah Winfrey Show, and tickets to be in Oprah's audience are free! With the high demand it's a good idea to book your seat at least a month in advance. Visit www.oprah.com to learn more.

 

Dining

You can't leave Chicago without sampling the world-famous Chicago-style deep-dish pizza. Giordano's, Pizzeria Uno, Lou Malnati's and Gino's East are among the top pizzerias.

Chicago's steakhouse culture is unavoidable. Try Gene & Georgetti, one of Frank Sinatra's old hangouts.

Gourmet magazine says Alinea is the best restaurant in the US, and it is certainly unforgettable dining. Each of the 12 courses in a ‘tasting' is a work of art in itself. Prepare to spend at least four hours for the experience.

 

To Go

Flights from Auckland to Chicago via Los Angeles start at around $2800.
Visit www.airnewzealand.co.nz.

You won't find many hostels or motels as most of the city's places to stay are high-rise hotels. Ranging from boutique buildings built in the early 1900s to shiny new luxury towers, you can find great accomodation no matter your price range. Visit www.choosechicago.com or www.explorechicago.org to get started.

 

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