There's a black bear outside my door. It's on my patio foraging for food and only a pane of glass separates us. It looks cuddly, but I'm scared!

I'm in Yosemite National Park, at Lodge at the Falls, three and a half hours drive east of San Francisco. Locals say the bears won't harm you, they're just looking for food - and of all the reported deaths in the park, none have been caused by the paws or jaw of a bear.

‘People do stupid stuff,' says Yosemite PR manager Kenny Karst of the thrill-seekers who have fatally fallen from cliffs. ‘But don't worry, no deaths have been caused by a bear.'

If you want to get back to nature, this is the place to do it. Tourists mainly come to Yosemite for the spectacular falls, which flow from October until late July. Granite cliffs rise from the depths of glacier-carved valleys and beautiful black oaks and ponderosa pines frame the escarpment.

Rooms with a view

The family-friendly Lodge is so close to the falls that the sound of crashing water lulls you to sleep. Another sight to behold is the Ahwahnee Hotel. This grand structure was built in 1927 and has been visited by many a celeb, including Brad Pitt and Barbra Streisand.

In the ballroom, wrought iron candelabras are suspended from sugar pine timber, offering a medieval touch.

A pianist, who's also the local postman, plays soft music on the Steinway, while our waiter tells us he came for a summer in 1971, fell in love with the place and never left.

While this hotel comes with a price tag to match its prestige, there's Accommodation within Yosemite to suit every budget. If you love the outdoors, check out Housekeeping Camp. There's no need to bring a tent - the walls are concrete, the roof canvas and the amenities modern. The campfire is also perfect for outdoor cooking. Nearby Curry Village offers canvas tents, cabins and motel rooms.

With 1300km of marked trails, you can choose between flat walks around Yosemite Valley and wilder hikes in the back country. You can either strike out on your own or join a guided hike.

The popular trek up to Vernal Falls along the High Sierra Camps Loop trail is strenuous and involves a steep incline. It's even harder on the way down, but you will feel a sense of accomplishment as you view waterfalls splashing a rainbow mist into crystal clear rock pools. Squirrels gnaw acorns on the paths and mountain deer peer over ledges high above.

Take it easier

You can also explore the area by bus or tram. The full-day guided Grand Tour combines the spectacular Glacier Point and Mariposa Grove with a stop at the historic Wawona Hotel for lunch. It's perfect for those who want to see as much of the park as possible in a short period of time.

The two-hour Valley Floor Tour visits a number of picturesque spots such as Yosemite Falls, Tunnel View, El Capitan and Bridalveil Fall. A free shuttle bus also tours the valley.

You can explore Yosemite by bicycle, too. Surprisingly, many of the scenic paths are flat and there are 20km of tracks to pedal along.

The natural beauty of the area has long been an inspiration to artists. Renowned photographer Ansel Adams immortalised the valley in his famous black-and-white portraits.

Born in 1902, Ansel was a pianist who found his talent also lay in photography. He went on to take 40,000 glass plate negatives reflecting his love of the area. He used mules to carry his equipment to top of the Sierra Nevada mountain range.

Ansel died in 1984, but his family still runs the Ansel Adams Gallery. Highly recommended is the back-room tour, where you can find out more about the artist and view original prints. The tours take place every Saturday afternoon.

Ansel was also once the musical director of the spectacular three-hour Christmas pageant, the Bracebridge Dinner, which is a local tradition at the Ahwahnee. Every year the hotel's dining room is transformed into the majestic space from American author Washington Irving's legendary novel Bracebridge Hall.

Aglow with candlelight, the dining room is brought to life with music while a seven-course meal is served. The pageant is staged eight times from December 15 to Christmas Day.

Yosemite is an alluring park visited by 3.5 million people annually. But it's easy to escape the crowds; more than 94 per cent of Yosemite is wilderness - just watch out for bears!

By Andrea Black

Return economy flights with Air New Zealand from Auckland to San Francisco cost around $2700.

To plan your trip, including information on Lodge at the Falls, Curry Village and Housekeeping Camp, visit www.yosemitepark.com.

For information on the Ansel Adams Gallery, head to www.anseladams.com.

Click here for more New Idea travel.